May Trends

Posted on May 1st, by staff in Skincare. 7 comments

May Trends

The Future looks Bright

Fair skin skin long been a status symbol in Asia and now research conducted by Procter & Gamble confirms what the Asian beauty market has indicated for years: A youthful complexion isn’t just wrinkle-free (we North Americans have been hell-bent on reducing lines!), it’s also even-tone and clear of pigmentation. In Japan alone, approximately 55 percent of women use skin brightening/lightening products. The quest for topical products that help block melanin production seems never-ending in the rapidly growing skin-lightening market in Asia, which reached an estimated $2 billion in 2012. According to Global Industry Analysts (GIA), sales are expected to reach $10 billion by 2015, driven by new markets in the West and sustained growth in Asia-Pacific.

Product lines from China, Japan, Korea dominate the market, with France, Iceland, and Israel trailing behind. Could Canada be a top player in the brightening game? Our go-to Toronto dermatologist Dr. Lisa Kellett is set to release her own pigmentation-fighting line called “Spotless” this month.

Although no single ingredient has yet to be declared the magic weapon against a blotchy complexion, basic chemicals like hydroquinone (banned in Europe due to links to cancer), niacin amide, kojic acid, and extracts from natural sources such as licorice root, bearberry shrub, cranberry, mushrooms have been found to be useful when used diligently over several months. Arbutin, which is found in mushrooms and some pears, is a key ingredient in Dr. Kellett’s upcoming Spotless line. Stay tuned for more info!

Skin cancer stats

Melanoma is the most dangerous form of skin cancers. It usually starts in the epidermis, in the melanocytes, and will grow down into the skin to eventually reach the blood and lymph vessels. From there it spreads to all parts of the body. Melanoma is being diagnosed in epidemic numbers:

1 in 65 Americans has a lifetime risk of developing invasive melanoma, while 1 in 37 will develop noninvasive melanoma. – The American Association of Dermatology, 2004. 27% of skin cancer survivors admitted to never using sunscreen, and 15% said they never stay in the shade. – 2010 National Health Interview Survey, which asked 27,000 participants a variety of questions related to health practices, like sun care. 81,300 : 75,000 is the projected ratio of skin cancers diagnosed in Canada in 2012 to other cancers combined (breast, lung, and prostate). – The Canadian Dermatology Association (CDA). 

This May, strip down! 

Why? More than 90% of melanomas that arise in the skin can be recognized with the naked eye, according to research. The CDA notes that 53% of melanoma skin cancers are discovered by the patients themselves and a further 17% by their family members. Routine self-examinations are therefore critical in early detection. “It only takes five minutes to look for any discolouration of the skin, a new mole or a change in the border, size, shape or colour of any existing mole,” says Dr. Kellett. She suggests getting your dermatologist to have an overall look at your skin and your hairdresser or barber to check your scalp.

When performing a self-examination keep in mind the ABCs of moles:

Asymmetry – Is your mole the same on both sides?

Borders – Are the borders of your mole irregular?

Colour – Has the colour of your mole changed or is more than 1 colour present?

Diameter – Is the diameter of your mole greater than a pencil’s eraser head?

Evolve – Is your mole evolving?  Have there been any changes in shape, size, colour, symptom, or surface?

Let’s stop traffic together!

The CDA plans to formally recognize Monday May 6th annually as “Melanoma Monday” with activities to raise awareness about the seriousness of melanoma, and how you can prevent it with early detection with the help of your dermatologist.

The Skiny is participating by encouraging readers to wear an orange-coloured shirt on May 6th. Join the pylon-party by getting social with us! Here’s what to do:

Tweet your photo to the CDA @CdnDermatology OR to us @theskinytweets

Instagram your photo to us @theskiny or post it on our Facebook wall at

Use the hashtags #MelanomaMonday #SPOTOrange

Product Buzz

It wasn’t that long ago that BB Creams took the skincare world by storm with their double-duty ingenuity. These time-saving “Beauty Balms” have continued to evolve, with the addition of colour correcting CC creams and now, brace yourselves, anti-aging DD creams.

This summer, Julep Beauty will be launching what they claim is the first-ever DD skincare range.  The line, complete with a Julep DD Crème ($36) and Julep DD Concealer ($32), claims to be a “dynamic do-all” that moisturizes, primes, perfects, and protects.  Their aim is to marry high quality skin care with luxurious make-up.

Julep Beauty’s DD Crème features lightweight, buildable coverage, skin-brightening agents, and a chemically formulated SPF 25 but its two star ingredients are patented anti-aging powerhouses. The first, Matrixyl synthe’6, is a peptide that affects structural components of skin by stimulating collagen, diminishing fine lines, hydrating, protecting, and repairing damaged skin. The second, Malvaceae Lipid Extract, is a proprietary blend of hibiscus and olive extracts which is said to mimic the compositions of cellular membranes found in the epidermis.

Sounds like the Swiss Army knife of makeup, doesn’t it? Or is this just a tinted moisturizer in disguise? Industry experts believe BB creams, and the like, can lead to more confusion than a cure-all for consumers.

According to Irina Barbalova, Global Head of beauty and Personal Care Research at Euromonitor, “the overuse of BB creams [by brands to signify multi-functionality] could really lead to diluting the original benefits of products and what they stand for.”

For the time being, it looks as though skincare marketing will continue to wend its way through the alphabet as skincare science stays focused on multi-tasking, streamlined products.

SPOTTED: Even hair companies are jumping on the bandwagon; Pantene Pro-V’s “BB crème for hair” claims to pack 10 benefits into one finishing product ($8 at drugstores).



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