The Skiny on Med Spas

WHAT HAPPENS WHEN THERE’S NO “MED” IN “MED SPA”?

By Sydney Loney

(Excerpt) In a survey of American Society of Dermatologic Surgery members, published in 2020, researchers discovered 70 per cent of 306 dermatologists reported seeing at least one patient – and as many as 20 – with botched cosmetic treatments in the past two years, the majority of which were attributed to medical spas.  There is no recent data from Canada, although a survey of Canadian dermatologists in 2012 raised concerns about burns caused by laser hair removal.  The most common issues U.S. dermatologist reported included discolouration and burns from intense pulsed light treatments and laser hair removal, as well as reactions and infections arising from misplace fillers.

Ten years ago, Toronto dermatologist Dr. Lisa Kellett might have encountered post-esthetic spa complications every few months – now she sees them every week.  “Don’t get me started,” Kellett says. “These places are the bane of my existence.”  The worst cases she’s seen have been vascular occlusions, where filler was injected into, or too close to, an artery, blocking blood flow and causing the surrounding skin to die.  In rare cases it can lead to blindness.  “If you can diagnose it, you can treat it,” Kellett says.  “But in these situations, even if the injector had diagnosed it correctly, they didn’t know what the treatment was.”

The problem, Kellett says, is that pretty much anyone can open a clinic that offers esthetic medicine and call it a med spa. “It’s difficult to have someone go in and regulate med spas, because they’re popping up on every corner,” she says.  Esthetic medicine was an already lucrative industry that flourished during the pandemic, thanks to all the hours people spent contemplating their fine lines and tired eyes on Zoom calls.  In 2020, the global med spa industry was valued at more than US$12 billion (the equivalent of almost C$16 billion) – a figure that’s expected to reach nearly US$26 billion (C$34 billion) by 2026, according to the Dublin-based data firm Research and Markets.

From Zoomer Magazine

The Skiny on Moles

Understanding moles: Types, risks and how to keep your skin safe

A Toronto-based dermatologist says Canadians should be making self-examinations a habit.

By Karla Renic

(Excerpt)

This article is for informational purposes only and is not a substitute for professional medical advice, diagnosis or treatment. Contact a qualified medical professional before engaging in any physical activity, or making any changes to your diet, medication or lifestyle.

Those who spent much of the summer months under the sun may find new or changing moles that can sometimes cause concern.

While most moles are harmless, some have the potential to become cancerous.

As summer winds down, dermatologist and leader of Toronto’s DLK on Avenue Dr. Lisa Kellett tells Yahoo Canada that Canadians should be making self-examinations a habit.

Read on for everything to know about these skin anomalies, how to self-examine them and when removal might be necessary.

What are moles and skin tags?

Moles, known medically as nevi, are pigmented lesions that can vary greatly in appearance and type.

Kellett explained moles are usually pre-programmed from birth and come in a multitude of forms. Some are present from birth while others develop over time due to various factors, including sun exposure.

From yahoo! life, to read the entire article please click here.

Copper Peptides and Skin-Care

Are Copper Peptides Worth Adding to Your Skin-Care Routine?

A dermatologist shares her thoughts on the trendy ingredient.

By Renée Reardin

(Excerpt) Every so often there’s a new skin-care ingredient that seems to seep its way into our vocabulary. (Remember Bakuchiol? Squalane? Snail mucin?) Today that ingredient is copper peptides—and beauty influencers love to tout its benefits.

“If you haven’t tried this skin-care product, you will after watching this video,” says baby-faced TikToker Abbey Yung. She’s talking about a product by Canadian beauty brand The Ordinary featuring copper peptides that she says “took [her] skin to the next level.” What does the ingredient do exactly? According to influencers like Yung, it stimulates collagen and elastin production, to help you recapture a youthful glow.

Today, the copper peptide hashtag on TikTok has raked in over 31 million views and a slew of products spotlighting the ingredient are popping up on store shelves—so what do the pros think?

What are copper peptides?

“They’re found in the skin as well as being exogenous,” says dermatologist at DLK on Avenue Dr. Lisa Kellett,  which means they occur naturally but can also be manufactured synthetically and added to skin care products. “They play a role as an antioxidant, but there’s not a lot of evidence-based medicine that supports their use,” she says.

Does that mean we don’t know for sure what their benefits are?

While there’s evidence of the effectiveness of antioxidants like vitamin C, says Kellett, copper peptides are lacking the research needed to make factual claims on its effectiveness. But, she says, “there’s been some data to suggest they’re important in collagen remodelling and regeneration.”

What types of skin-care products are they typically found in?

They’re most commonly in serums, says Kellett, but can also be found in moisturizers.

From Best Health, to read the entire article please click here.

Anti-Stress Skincare

Goodbye, Stress-Caused Acne

The solution to stress breakouts

Written by Kelly Chua

a middle-aged, affluent woman in the workforce is doing work on her computer looking for some anti-aging skincare.Stress has now become an inevitable part of our lives. Whether it’s at work, we’re stressing about getting promoted, meeting quotas, or simply not screwing up. Maybe it’s at home, where we’re stressing about our kids, chores, and significant others. Stress follows us everywhere! When we’re stressed, hormones like cortisol act up. Excess amounts of cortisol cause our body to produce excess oil, which gives us acne. Having acne causes stress for most people, and thus the cycle continues: acne, stress and repeat. To break this cycle, invest in high-quality skincare. Here are some tips on how to avoid acne when we’re stressed and some tips on how to destress:

  1. Practice Self-Care

This seems obvious, but the best solution to stress and its negative effects is to attack it at its core. When life becomes stressful, we often forget to prioritize our basic needs. Try to avoid stress by taking care of yourself. Get enough sleep (at least 8 hours or as much as you can get), treat yourself, do relaxation techniques, and eat healthily.

  1. Cleanse Your Skin

When we’re stressed, it can often cause acne and inflammation in our face. Our face becomes puffy, and we look extra stressed. My secret to battling this is to use Clear Clinical’s Calming Cleanser. It cleanses my skin which reduces acne, while also reducing the inflammation on my face. It calms my stressed, puffy face all the time!

  1. Moisturize & Hydrate Your Skin

three medical-grade skincare products are seen having treating sensitive skin issues.Stressed skin can have broken skin barriers that allow for more acne. It’s important to moisturize your skin to regenerate and rebuild your skin’s protective barrier. Clear Clinical’s Calming Balm with MicroSilver is perfect for this. I use this 3 times daily, moisturizing my sensitive skin. It also contains Naringenin and Bisabolol, which have anti-inflammatory properties — great for stressed skin. Also, drink lots of water (at least 8 glasses of water a day). Staying hydrated can also moisturize your skin!

  1. Use Face Masks

When you’re stressed, it shows! Your skin can look fatigued and tired. Use a face mask like Darphin’s Vetiver Oil Mask to combat this. This mask helps your skin battle stress and helps it rebuild its barriers. It helps your skin look radiant and healthy instead of stressed and fatigued. Moreover, the calming aroma of this mask can help with your stress!

  1. Find an Outlet

Find ways to destress! Whether it’s binge-watching your favorite TV show or playing your favorite sport, destressing is an excellent way to keep your skin healthy. Never underestimate the power of your mind to communicate with your body. When you’re happy, your skin is happy.

It’s impossible to live stress-free, but we can manage the negative effects of stress and try our best to destress. These are only a few tips on anti-stress skin care. I hope you have healthy skin, free from acne and inflammation despite the ongoing stresses in your life!

Happy skincaring <3

Simon Cowell Update

The Truth Behind Simon Cowell’s Face

with Sina Bari, MD.

Written by Carlyn

What Happened to Simon Cowell’s Face?

Stanford Hospital Clinics, March 23

Source: Quora:

Simon Cowell is seen with a botched looking plastic surgery facelift.

“Starting from the top and working down:

  • Overall skin – he’s lost the texture that is appropriate for someone his age. I would guess this is overuse of resurfacing treatments like Laser or IPL. This has resulted in a waxy, homogenous texture that loses the subtleties that are necessary for delineating the different zones and subunits of the face (e.g. nasal sidewalls vs. cheeks vs. lower lid)
  • At some point he has had complications w/ upper eyelid surgery and this has resulted in scarring down of the lateral part of each eyelid. Eyelids are incredibly delicate and scarring, once occurred, can be extremely difficult to fix. You can see the tethering of scar tissue especially in his left temple. He always had ptotic or low upper lids which is often seen favorably as “bedroom eyes”. This may have worsened with age causing vision obstruction and leading to the initial eyelid surgery for correction.

Simon Cowell is seen looking very creepy after multiple botched plastic surgery attempts.

  • Possibly to correct the scarring issue, he may have had a forehead lift to try to reduce some of the weight of the upper lids. This has resulted in a unfortunate rounding of the eyebrows which is not masculine. Ideally, brow lifts in men should account for the difference in male vs female brow shape and position. He may have tried to shape the brow with hair removal to lessen this effect but now they look manicured and too spaced apart.
  • His midface is plagued by migrated and liquified filler that has lost any prominence. He historically had very strong cheekbones and likely attempted to keep that look over time with filler. This filler has unfortunately migrated down and flattened over time creating a cartoonish bloated “pillow-face” look.
  • The overuse of filler continues to his NL folds and he loses definition around his mouth.

Long story short, he has a combination of over-correction of skin texture changes and volume loss with too much resurfacing and filler and likely surgical complications of attempted congenital ptosis (droopy eyelid) correction.”

– Sina Bari MD from Stanford Hospital Clinics

March 23

Spring Break and Sunscreen

Spring Break and Sunscreen

Name a better duo.

Written by Carlyn

With spring sun on the radar, it’s time to start thinking about how exactly you’re going to protect your skin from the sun’s harmful rays. I know, I know, wearing sunscreen isn’t exactly the most exciting thing to think about, but trust me, it’s key to your health and your beauty game.: A middle-aged, affluent woman wearing an elegant beige Wide Brim Sun Hat with UPF 50+ is on the beach holding a white bottle of Clear Clinical SPF 30 Sunscreen Spray. The background of the photo shows light sand and a sunny luxury beach vacation destination.

Let’s start with the basics. The sun emits two types of UV radiation that can damage your skin: UVA and UVB. UVA rays penetrate deep into the skin and can cause premature aging, while UVB rays cause sunburns. Both types of rays increase your risk of developing skin cancer, which is definitely something not to be messed with.

SPF? More like BFF. Sunscreen is an absolute necessity and works by absorbing or reflecting UV radiation, protecting your skin from damage. The American Academy of Dermatology recommends wearing a broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 30 every day, even on cloudy days. In fact, 80% of the sun’s harmful UV rays can penetrate through the clouds on overcast days!

In addition to protecting your skin from cancer and premature aging, sunscreen can also prevent sunburns and that uncomfortable peeling that comes with them. Plus, there are plenty of lightweight, non-greasy formulas out there that won’t leave you feeling sticky or oily. My personal fave is the Clear Clinical SPF 30 Sunscreen Spray, which is medical-grade and curated for acne.

But sunscreen isn’t the only way to protect your skin from the sun this spring break. Here are a few more tips to keep in mind:

  • Seek shade: If you’re going to be outside during peak hours (11am-2pm), try to stay in the shade as much as possible.
  • Wear protective clothing: Clothing can provide an extra layer of protection against the sun. Look for lightweight, breathable fabrics that cover your skin, such as long-sleeved shirts, pants, wide-brimmed hats and sunglasses!
  • Stay hydrated: Drinking plenty of water can help keep your skin hydrated and healthy. Aim to drink at least eight glasses of water a day.
  • Use skincare products with antioxidants: Antioxidants like vitamin C and E can help protect your skin from the damaging effects of the sun. Clear Clinical’s juicy Vitamin C Ferulic Serum hits the spot when it comes to a bright, youthful complexion.

So, there you have it. Protecting your skin from the sun is key to staying healthy and looking your best. It’s more than just a beauty regimen—it’s a preventative measure against skin damage and cancer. Investing in high-quality, medical-grade skincare brands like Clear Clinical makes all the difference. The Wide Brim Sun Hat in the color “natural” is an amazing pair to my Sunscreen Spray. Whether you’re hitting the beach, hiking in the mountains, or just lounging in your backyard, make sure you take the time to protect your skin from those harmful rays. Your future self is thanking you!

Happy skincaring <3

Skin Under Pressure

Is your skin telling you to chill out?

Written by Carlyn

Like any other organ in the body, the skin consistently communicates with the brain and therefore picks up on many of your thoughts and feelings. According to plastic surgeon Dr. Lara Devgan of New York City, “any type of stress can manifest in your skin, since the skin is actually the largest organ in the body.” Specific factors such as increased cortisol levels can cause inflammation, redness, dehydration and general discomfort—to name a few. The bottom line is, when you’re stressed, your skin feels it.

So how exactly can you reverse the progression of stress manifesting in the skin?

Toronto dermatologist Dr. Lisa Kellett suggests dumbing down your routine, aka going back to the basics. This means deleting products and ingredients with colours, dyes, fragrances and heavy oils. Depending on where your skin’s at, heavy makeup, including an oily layer of foundation should also be avoided—especially by stressed skin. As a rule of thumb, stressed skin really needs to breathe, which means it could be time to give your skin a little break. If stressed skin could talk, it would beg you to go fresh-faced for as long as it takes to calm down. 

What can you do to avoid stressing your skin in the first place?

Dermatologists agree that knowing and understanding your skin, along with its specific concerns is key to maintaining a healthy and effective skin regimen. Understanding your skin includes using products that benefit and nurture your specific skin concerns. 

Let’s be real, the skincare game is no easy feat. From complicated ingredient names, to conflicting routine information online, skincare users are often left scratching their heads trying to make sense of the madness. Often, people tend to unknowingly over-cleanse, without fuelling their skin with hydrating and protective ingredients such as ceramides and hyaluronic acid. Over-cleansing can cause the skin to become dry, irritated, red, or even excessively oily, causing breakouts. For those who are unclear about what products to use, Dr. Kellett suggests a consultation with a dermatologist to establish what ingredients are most effective for you and in what order to use your products. Furthermore, it’s important to make sure that your skin isn’t suffering from an actual medical issue.

Reducing Redness: 

Red and irritated skin could benefit from an emollient moisturizer, which works by decreasing trans-epidermal water loss by locking moisture into the skin. Since many skin issues such as eczema and dermatitis can worsen when the skin is irritated and dry, an emollient can help keep hydration levels high. The best emollient moisturizer we’ve come by is the Calming Balm with MicroSilver, an effective anti-inflammatory ingredient. Someone struggling with redness should also focus on using calming products without the presence of alcohols. Dr. Kellett’s favourite tip for irritated skin is to put your derm-approved product in the fridge prior to use, as the coolness can often help with the itch. 

Bye Bye Breakouts: 

An acne breakout can be a key sign of stress. Dr. Kellett recommends a clarifying cleanser to be used once or twice a day to help regulate your skin’s oil production. However, be careful not to be overly aggressive with cleansing, as patients tend to “scrub” their faces, hoping that this will help with a deeper clean. In fact, this excessive scrubbing can lead to more overproduction of oil in the skin and can actually make the existing acne condition worse. Be gentle with your skin! We love the Polishing Gel Cleanser for a deep and effective clean, without stripping the skin of it’s natural oils.

Benzoyl Peroxide is your new BFF when it comes to treating those annoying blemishes. BP works by attacking the bacteria on the skin and unclogging pores by removing dead skin to prevent blockages. We recommend the Medicated Acne Gel, which quickly starts drying up pimples overnight. The trick to maximizing the effectiveness of BP is to apply only a pea-sized amount for the entire face, since the ingredient is pretty strong. 

Finally, avoiding oily and heavy products is key to reducing your acne condition. Thick foundations and sunscreens should be avoided and replaced with lightweight sprays and gels instead. 

Demolish Dry Skin: 

A derm’s secret trick to dealing with dry skin is to take baths instead of showers. According to Dr. Kellett, showers can increase water loss in the skin, which can cause the skin to become irritated and dry. Taking a bath and using a bath oil will help your skin create a protective and moisturized barrier, which will result in smooth and bouncy skin. Another useful tip is to apply moisturizer onto damp skin when getting out of the tub. The dampness of the skin will suck in the moisturizer, which will help your skin stay hydrated for longer. 

People with dry skin concerns should also try to avoid foaming cleansers since the texture and consistency can be excessively drying to people with existing dry skin conditions. A foaming face wash is usually recommended for those with excessive oil. 

While in a dry spell, avoiding chemical exfoliants such as AHAs, BHAs and glycolic acids is also key, since these intense ingredients work to regulate and reduce excessive oil production. For someone with dry skin, the use of chemical exfoliants could strip the skin further, resulting in itchy, flaky irritation. 

Happy skincaring <3

A Love-Heat Relationship

What’s So Bad About a Sunburn?

…and why should we protect ourselves from the sun? 

Written by Carlyn

We all know what a sunburn feels like—an uncomfortable, tight and stingy sensation that feels like it will never go away. And don’t even get me started on the peeling. Yikes. 

Unfortunately, sunburns have developed a surprisingly “trendy” reputation, despite the amount of skin damage that actually occurs.  

For some, a sunburn is an inevitable tradeoff for a beach vacation, which includes justifying remarks like my burn will turn into a tan or I need a base burn so that I can tan. Illogical and flawed, perpetuating the notion of sacrificing the health of your skin to meet a beauty standard is dangerous. Period.

For starters, a sunburn hurts you in more ways than one. The damage goes far beyond short-term pain and redness. Even after the sunburn fades, long-term damage remains. 

By accelerating skin aging, sunburn is a principal cause in the majority of skin cancer cases including basal cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma and melanoma (I know, scary words). In fact, your risk of developing potentially deadly melanoma doubles with a history of five or more sunburns. 

What actually is a sunburn? 

Toronto dermatologist Dr. Kellett shares that sunburn is the skin’s response to injury, specifically exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. Apart from the immediate effects of sunburn such as redness, blistering and pain, it contributes to the permanent damage of skin cells. This permanent damage can lead to changes or mutations in DNA resulting in the production of cancerous cells. 

Why are some people more prone to sunburn? 

Melanin is a natural pigment that gives colour to the skin, hair and eyes. It also provides some protection against the sun’s intense rays by darkening unprotected skin exposed to the sun. Genetics determine the amount of melanin produced, which is the reason why some people badly sunburn while others tan. Skin type can determine the susceptibility of sunburn, where folks with fair skin run the greatest risk. However, anyone can get burned! 

Even without a burn, UV radiation from the sun increases the risk of skin cancer. And although redness is hard to see on darker skin types, the sun can still cause cellular damage which can lead to cancer. 

How can sunburn be avoided?

Even on a cloudy day, the sun is still very much a threat. Up to 80% of UV rays can penetrate through the clouds, meaning that you can still burn on an overcast day. 

The best way to approach sunburn is to avoid it in the first place. Daily sunscreen application is key in avoiding sunburn and sun damage, which includes wrinkling of the skin. We love the Clear Clinical 30 SPF Spray for comfortable and lightweight daily protection against the sun, while avoiding an acne breakout too. Wearing a hat with a proper brim while exposed is also crucial in the practice of sun safety. Finally, staying hydrated should be a priority too. Sun exposure can cause serious dehydration, which can lead to sun or heat stroke. 

Sunburn is bad news. But, the good news is that it’s completely preventable. The best time to start? Today! 

Stay cool & happy skincaring <3 

Alopecia Makes its Oscar Debut

Alopecia Areata Slapped onto Centre Stage at the 94th Academy Awards

Why did Will Smith slap Chris Rock at the Oscars?

Written by Carlyn

Two words: Alopecia Areata.

In the medical vocabulary, Alopecia means ‘bald’ and Areata means ‘patchy’.

Jada Pinkett Smith, actor Will Smith’s wife, has been candid about her struggles with an autoimmune disease called Alopecia Areata, which consists of patchy and unpredictable hair loss.

During last night’s 94th Academy Awards, Chris Rock directed a bald joke at Jada, which did not sit well with ‘Best Actor’ winner Will Smith. Rock was referring to Demi Moore’s bald look in the 1997 Action film G.I. Jane.

Alopecia Areata is classified as an autoimmune disease, which consists of the immune system mistakenly attacking parts of the body. In this case, the cells of the immune system attack and surround the hair follicles, halting hair growth.

Here’s what Toronto dermatologist Dr. Lisa Kellett of DLK on Avenue had to say about the condition:

There are many different types of hair loss, also known as Alopecia. Hair loss can be divided into cicatricial (scarring) and non-cicatricial (non-scarring) forms. One form of non-cicatricial alopecia is Alopecia Areata. This is a form of Alopecia caused by an autoinflammatory response to the hair follicle. Patients can have isolated patches of hair loss on the scalp, however in more severe forms, it can occur anywhere on the body including the eyelashes and eyebrows. Some patients can also experience the loss of all hair (Alopecia Universalis). Patients with Alopecia Areata are also at a higher risk of having other autoimmune diseases, such as Thyroid Disease, Pernicious Anemia and Addison’s Disease among others, so it is important to follow these patients carefully.

Treatments for Alopecia Areata includes topical methods such as topical steroids, intralesional steroid injections or systemic medications in more severe forms. Other common forms of non-cicatricial alopecia are Telogen Effluvium, which can occur after illness or trauma and Androgenetic Alopecia, which is commonly seen in men and some women with aging.

Evidently, Alopecia is serious and can be upsetting for the person affected due to appearance factors. In 2018, a peer-reviewed study showed that “Black and Hispanic women in the U.S. have a significantly greater chance of developing Alopecia Areata in their lifetime than White women.”

In 2018, JPS was open about her condition during an episode of her Facebook series, Red Table Talk, stating that “It was terrifying when it first started. I was in the shower one day and then just handfuls of hair just in my hands.”

Did Chris have it coming?

Is Beauty Sleep Real?

Beauty sleep is real. Is your skin getting enough shut-eye?

The concept of “Beauty Sleep” may seem like a tired (haha) cliché, but what if there was actually scientific truth behind it?

Written by Carlyn

Obviously, sleep is an essential part of life. Sleep allows our bodies to rest, recuperate and heal from our busy daily lives. Specifically, deep sleep is where all the fun stuff happens—our bodies enter recovery mode and produce growth hormones. Growth hormones work hard to generate new cells that help heal our skin from damage done during the day.

Have you ever woken up from a bad night’s sleep and noticed pale, even blotchy-looking skin? Skin requires sleep in order to heal and when we lack it, the evidence is *literally* written all over our faces.

There are two areas that are highly affected by the quality of our slumbers: Aging and Acne.

Studies have shown that poor sleep quality accelerated intrinsic aging. Uneven skin tone, reduced elasticity of the skin and wrinkles all developed quicker when z’s were limited. The same study also showed that a deficiency in sleep delayed the skin’s ability to recover from UV exposure, which resulted in more wrinkles and fine lines. The epidermis receives an increased amount of blood flow during sleep, which helps the skin rebuild and produce new collagen. So, the more collagen produced by the skin during sleep, the less likely you are to wrinkle.

When it comes to acne, sleep deprivation is known to add fuel to the fire. Poor sleep habits can lead to an increase in stress hormones, specifically cortisol, which can lead to breakouts. Lacking sleep leads to an increased secretion of cortisol, and in turn, stress boosts the secretion of the neuropeptide Substance P. Both have been studied to play a significant role in the development of acne. Further, greater amounts of cortisol can exacerbate inflammation, and can cause the skin to create more oil and sebum than usual, resulting in clogged pores. Anddd we all know what that means. Sad face.

It’s important to add that high quality sleep is more than youthful and glowing skin. It’s about maintaining your health in mind, body, and skin for many years ahead. Getting a good night’s sleep is probably the best investment you can make in yourself.

Psst. The global beauty industry market was estimated to be valued at $511 billion in 2021. This includes fillers, serums, creams, and treatments. We spend SO much time, energy and money on procedures and products, but often overlook a crucial beauty tool: Sleep. Plus, it’s free and requires zero effort. What’s your excuse?!

Sleep well and happy skincaring <3

The fight against acne

Win the fight against acne once and for all

Written by Carlyn

Look for these ingredients in your acne-fighting skincare routine:

1. Benzoyl Peroxide (BP)

This very special ingredient will always be #1 on our list. Working to prevent and treat acne by killing bacteria underneath the skin, BP has secured its place as the most effective acne treatment. In particular, BP loves to treat inflammatory acne, which is characterized by swollen red bumps that can be quite painful.

It’s important to note that a little goes a long way with BP. In other words, this sh*t is strong. If you’re prone to skin sensitivity, integrating BP into your routine slowly and gradually is key.

Pro tip: Apply a thin layer of a lightweight gel moisturizer after applying BP. The layer of moisturizer will act as a buffer and protect your skin from possible dryness from BP’s intensity.

When used regularly, Benzoyl Peroxide can take about 4 weeks to work its magic.

2. Salicylic Acid (SA)

This is definitely one of our favourite beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). Due to the chemical structure of salicylic acid, it’s more oil-soluble, meaning that it can better penetrate the pores of the skin. By working deep in the skin, SA can unclog pores and reduce their appearance.

Blackheads especially hate SA because it rocks at dissolving skin debris and dirt buildup. Salicylic acid works as a keratolytic, which means that it breaks down keratin found in the outer layers of the skin. SA softens the keratin found in dead cells that accumulated with sebum to clog pores. The dissolving function helps loosen the blackhead, making the debris easier to remove.

When used regularly, SA can take up to 6-8 weeks to really start kicking in.

3. Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs)

Try and say that word ten times fast. Aside from its super ~sciencey~ name, AHAs are pretty straightforward. AHAs are a group of chemical exfoliants which work to reduce the accumulation of sebum (oil), remove dead skin cells, and help prevent the overgrowth of bacteria. AHAs include glycolic acid, lactic acid and mandelic acid, which reduce breakouts by unclogging pores filled with debris—pretty much like a pore vacuum!

Typically, AHAs will produce a more radiant complexion right away. However, AHAs’ full potential can take up to 12 weeks to peak. Be patient!

4. Retinol

Retinol can wear a lot of hats, which is why we absolutely love it. Retinol is a type of retinoid, which is a vitamin A derivative. Retinol works by increasing the rate of cellular turnover of the outermost layer of the skin, eliminating dead skin cells and encouraging collagen production. Whiteheads, blackheads, and even inflamed acne can be treated with consistent retinol use. Plus, retinol will improve the overall tone and texture of the skin too!

Be warned, retinol is strong. The rule of thumb is to “start low and go slow” when integrating it into your routine. We also recommend applying retinol before bed, since it can make the skin more sensitive to the sun.

Pro tip: Use moisturizer after applying retinol to give your skin some lubricant to avoid dryness.

While retinol’s anti-aging properties can take longer to work, acne conditions see improvement after about 12 weeks.

 5. Sulfur

Sulfur may just be the best kept secret. Used frequently over two decades ago, sulfur is now making a huuuge comeback. Sulfur has been clinically tested to be an effective antibacterial and drying agent for acne. Results also showed that sulfur is acceptable for our sensitive skin friends too! Look for this ingredient in masks, cleansers and spot treatments to unclog pores by removing the top layer of dead skin cells.

You’ll need to be patient with sulfur too, since it can take up to 10 weeks to see significant results.

One last thing—Everyone’s skincare journey will look different. Just because you haven’t seen any noticeable results in a couple days doesn’t mean that your products aren’t working. Trust the process and stick with it.

If you struggle with persistent and stubborn acne, seeing a dermatologist for medical direction is your best option. That way, you won’t waste your time going through the frustrating cycle of product trial and error. Our go-to dermatologist is DLK on Avenue.

You’ll never regret investing in your skin!

Happy skincaring <3

Medical-Grade Skincare

The Skiny on Medical-grade skincare

Let’s be honest: the beauty and cosmetic world has us by the neck. If I see Jennifer Aniston using an anti-aging cream on TV, you know I’m running to Shoppers to pick it up—and I know I’m not the only one! From DIY gimmicks, to celebrity skincare lines to viral TikTok trends, we, as the beauty consumer collective, are undeniably susceptible to skincare gossip. Our latest topic? Medical-grade skincare.

Is medical-grade skincare actually worth it?

The term “medical-grade” sounds scary AF. It can also be expensive AF.  Do medical-grade products actually work, and how are they different from regular cosmetics?

What is medical-grade skincare?

Medical-grade skincare, also known as cosmeceutical skincare, is created to target specific medical conditions such as fine lines or acne.

To get into the nitty-gritty, the concentration of the active ingredients is higher compared to what you can find over-the-counter. Higher concentrations of actives means that you’re more likely to see results in a shorter period of time. Medical-grade skincare has also been clinically tested to be beneficial to the skin, therefore yielding better results.

We desperately want to be a fan of medical-grade skincare because it provides both cosmetic and medicinal advantages. But, medical-grade skincare can get pretty pricey. Is it really worth your money?

According to dermatologist Dr. Lisa Kellett, the ‘best’ skincare is medically directed. For example, if you suffer from redness, it could be rosacea, eczema, or a yeast-based infection. Without knowing what the cause of the redness is, it would be difficult to know what the best skincare would be for your condition. A lack of medical direction is a lack of knowledge. In the absence of a proper diagnosis, your skincare might not be optimal for your skin condition.

What makes medical-grade skincare so great?

Generally speaking, medical grade skincare has received the stamp of approval by Health Canada and is therefore safer than a product that has not been Health Canada approved. Often, medical-grade products will also contain drugs, which have been shown to treat specific skin conditions.

Some medical-grade skincare products contain active ingredients that are classified as drugs. For instance, a topical medical-grade acne treatment can claim to treat acne because it contains the drug Benzoyl Peroxide. Benzoyl Peroxide is a strong chemical compound which has been shown to be effective in treating acne. On the other hand, a non-medical-grade skincare product cannot contain Benzoyl Peroxide because it lacks drug clearance by Health Canada. So, it’s likely that the medical-grade product containing BP will be more effective in the treatment of acne and in a shorter amount of time compared to the product without it.

Over-the-counter products cannot claim to treat wrinkles or even dry skin, because of their “cosmetic” classification. In other words, cosmetic products are simply not medical-grade caliber; they don’t have the potential to guarantee results like medical-grade skincare can.

Our advice?

If you struggle with a particular skin condition such as acne or wrinkles, medical-grade products will likely help you get results faster. Backed by clinical evidence and Health Canada, medical-grade skincare seems to be worth the extra fee, especially if you want your skin concern dealt with ASAP.

Happy skincaring <3

The 4-1-1 on Face Washing

Do you really need to wash your face in the morning, and the problem with over cleansing.

Written by Carlyn

Here it is—the million dollar question—Do I really need to wash my face in the morning?

We could be here allllll day discussing this question. Why is there so much controversy around how many times you should wash your face?!

We’ve teamed up with our expert dermatologist, Dr. Lisa Kellett, to give you the 4-1-1 on face washing: How many times should you wash your face and how does skin type play a role in
answering this question?

Do I need to wash my face in the morning?

DLK: Most people don’t actually need to cleanse their face in the morning because there is nothing that you’re doing at night—for the most part—that gets your face dirty. Most people go to sleep with a clean face, therefore your face is still clean in the morning. The exception would be people who are perhaps very prone to acne and have excess oil production, and people who need to apply a treatment product in the morning. Applying a treatment in the morning to moist skin will increase trans-epidermal absorption of that product. So in that case, having a wet and clean face can increase the efficacy of your morning products. However, for the most part, a quick splash of water does the job!

I want to emphasize that although over-cleansing is a common issue, especially with acne prone skin conditions, the type of cleanser being used for your specific skin condition is just as
important, if not more.

What is the difference between rinsing and washing / cleansing?

DLK: Rinsing is just splashing your face with water—you aren’t actually cleansing or cleaning. In the morning, a quick rinse with lukewarm water is really all you need if you aren’t applying morning treatments. A simple rinse will help you avoid over-cleansing, which can irritate the skin.

Face washing, especially if you are using a Polishing Gel Cleanser, removes dead skin cell layers called the stratum corneum on the surface of the skin. As I said earlier, removing this dead skin layer will help the skin to look fresher and for products to be absorbed into the skin more effectively.

What if I have oily skin?

DLK: For patients with oily skin, there is a tendency for them to over-cleanse. In fact, if you have oily skin, it’s better to use a treatment (for example, Benzoyl Peroxide) and to cleanse once a day, than to cleanse twice a day without using a treatment. Over-cleansing, especially in the winter, can cause dryness, irritation, redness, and dermatitis. For oily and acne-prone skin types, over-cleansing can worsen acne, making it appear more red and irritated.

For acne-prone skin, a Polishing Gel Cleanser is recommend. This contains small, environmentally-friendly beads which help to gently remove dead skin cells that plug the pilosebaceous units, also known as pores. For mature and aging skin, look for Vitamin A cleansers, since this ingredient encourages the stimulation of collagen.

What if I have dry skin?

DLK: If you have dry skin, over-cleansing can make the condition worse. So, a very mild gel cleanser is recommended. Avoiding cleansers with the actives of lactic acid, salicylic acid and glycolic acid is important too. These ingredients are strong, and can sometimes cause irritation for people with dry and sensitive skin. I would recommend cleansing once daily to remove makeup, and avoid washing in the morning. Over-cleansing with dry skin can cause skin concerns such as dermatitis.

For dermatitis and eczema, look for very mild cleansers that are non-foaming. The foam could strip and dry out the skin, making existing skin concerns worse. Something very mild and gentle is key.

So, do I need to cleanse my face in the morning?

DLK: Short answer—for most people, no. However, using a cleanser that is ideal for your personal skin condition is really important.

There is such a large emphasis (especially in North America) on cleanliness, that people often tend to over-cleanse. The tendency is for patients to over-cleanse rather than to under-cleanse,
especially during a pandemic. Patients that over-cleanse see me to help them with irritation, which is actually caused by the over-cleansing. So the results are definitely significant.

There are a number of skin cleansers available on the market. There is a cleanser for everyone! I recommend taking the time to seek out a cleanser that is ideal for your skin and your particular skin concerns.

Happy skincaring <3

Skincare Rumours

Skincare rumours that need to be addressed:

Written by Carlyn

Let’s be real, there is way too much information—or shall I say skin-formation—out there. From blogs to YouTube channels to Insta profiles, filtering out the bullsh*t gets tough. Why is it so
hard to separate fact from cap on the deep dark web?! But fret not, we’re here to set the record straight on some current buzz-worthy skin rumours.

Let’s clear it up:

Rumour #1 – Drinking lots of water will hydrate the skin.

MYTH. Before you come for me, yes, water is paramount to maintaining our health. However, restoring hydration to the skin takes more than just a couple extra glasses of H2O. Keep sippin’ that water bottle, but also consider rehydrating your skin from the outside in with some topical products. Implementing a moisturizer and/or hydrator with ingredients such as hyaluronic acid will help achieve that dewy, youthful glow. Our personal fav hydrating product is the Peptide Gel from Clear Clinical, which is a highly concentrated hyaluronic acid serum.
Bring on the dew.

Rumour #2 – Pores can open and close.

MYTH. Due to genetics and living environments, our pores can appear to be many different shapes and sizes. However, our pores actually keep the same size and state at all times. Skin treatments such as clay masks can help reduce or loosen up oil and dirt clogged within the pore, but the pore itself does not open or close. Pores can dilate (or stretch) which is likely where this buzz-worthy myth was born.

Rumour #3 – A pore strip (or tape) gets rid of blackheads.

MYTH. I hate to break it to you, but blackheads can’t just be peeled off. Pore strips can often do more harm than good by aggressively taking off the outermost layer of your skin, leaving your skin literally *stripped* of its natural oils. Safely eradicating blackheads is a slower process and should take a couple of weeks. Ingredients such as Benzoyl Peroxide and salicylic acid can help penetrate and exfoliate those pesky b-heads away. Slow and steady wins the race!

Rumour #4 – Stinging / burning means that the product is working.

MYTH. Skincare should not be painful. A mild tingling feeling can be normal after applying some skincare products, but a burning sensation is not. If burning occurs, your skin is irritated and the product should be avoided entirely. Irritation could be a sign that you’re allergic to the product or its ingredients. Remove the product with water and a clean towel ASAP if you experience pain.
Ouch.

Rumour #5 – You don’t need sunscreen on a cloudy day.

MYTH. This one’s too important so we had to throw it in. UV radiation is extremely powerful. Just because you can’t see the sun through the clouds doesn’t mean UV rays aren’t reaching us here on Earth. Protect your skin from cancer and premature aging by applying sunscreen every single day. We recommend Clear Clinical’s SPF 30 Sunscreen Spray for the ultimate protection against the harmful effects of ultraviolet A & B rays.

So how exactly can false information be avoided online?

Upon discovering a new piece of skin-formation either online or on social media, a bit of detective work will go a long way. A quick Google search is a great place to start. As you begin to scroll, make sure to focus on content with reputable sources. Keep an eye out for that M.D. title; dermatologists, nurses, and other medical practitioners are trustworthy when it comes to this stuff.
Here at TheSkiny, we have the privilege of working with some lovely skin experts including a Medical Aesthetician, a Cosmetic Chemist, a Cosmetic Nurse, and a Dermatologist. Having these experts on-deck is critical when it comes to discussing the latest skincare advice, trends, and news.

Happy skincaring <3

Hangover Skincare Tips

Revive your skin after a night of partying

Written by Carlyn

So you have a skin hangover. Now what?

Listen, I completely get the urge to go out after being forced to stay home for the past two years. Aside from the sh*tty lack of social interaction, we have a lot of partying (and drinking!) to catch up on.

And how about that morning after? We definitely can’t forget about the turmoil that ensues after a wild night out. For starters, the dehydration headache and nausea make the morning pretty dark. Sadly, our favourite organ also takes the heat from a wild night out—prepare for dry skin, breakouts, and a dull complexion the next day.

But don’t worry—you’re in luck. We’ve been there. Now, we’re here to make your morning after a little less dreadful.

FYI—alcohol is a diuretic, meaning that it removes water from your body and skin. Soo, not super ideal for the skin if we’re being honest. Another sign of a wild night involves swelling and puffiness, two words we never want to associate with our skin.

Hangover Skincare Tips:
1. DRINK WATER. THEN DRINK SOME MORE.
This should be a given. In fact, a proactive person would ensure a 1:1 ratio of alcohol and water the night before. Aside from helping to hydrate the skin, H2O will help with that pesky headache and nausea too. So yea, drink water and then drink some more. Trust.

2. Apply ice or a cold compress because f*@k inflammation.
I don’t know about you, but my eyes become hidden under layers of puff the morning after. Our pro tip: throw 2 metal spoons into the freezer the night before. In the morning, these cold spoons will save your skin. I like to hold them under my eyes for some calming relief. Wrapping a few ice cubes in a clean cloth and applying them to the inflamed area will also do the trick. The cold compress will also help with that annoying headache!

3. Quench your skin’s thirst with a hydrating face mask.
Having alcohol in your system makes it harder for your skin to rehydrate. A hydrating face mask could just be the helping hand your skin needs. Pamper yourself with a cold and hydrating face mask to help restore the moisture your skin craves. Look out for hyaluronic acid as an ingredient, which will help your skin suck and hold the air’s moisture. HA is the best moisture magnet! Our pro tip: stash the mask in the fridge for some additional ~cool~ relief.

Since we’re all about hydration over here, we also recommend Clear Clinical’s Peptide Gel, which uses highly concentrated hyaluronic acid to suck moisture out of the air and hold it in the skin.

4. Lip balm it up.
For preventative measures, a lip balm to-go in your purse will be your saving grace. Since alcohol is dehydrating AF, your lips will need some extra love throughout the night. Our pro tip: a cylindrical lip balm tube will be most efficient and accessible while partying. No peeling lips on our watch.

5. Reach for caffeine.
Enjoy your cup a’ Joe. When all else fails to cure your hangover and bloated eyes, caffeine will come to the rescue. An eye cream enriched with caffeine can be highly effective for combatting hangover puffiness. Plus, no need to feel guilty about your $7 Starbucks coffee today!

Have you finished your water bottle yet? Keeeep chugging and happy skincaring <3

Holiday Beauty Gift Guide

Holiday gift ideas that will be a guaranteed hit this year

Written by Carlyn

My Holiday Beauty Gift Guide

The Holiday Season is the best time of the year…right? If you ignore the cold, the family gathering anxiety, the gaping hole in your wallet and the gift giving troubles, the holidays definitely take the cake. I’m here to make your holiday season a wee bit easier, so that you have more time to focus on the good stuff. Let’s talk gifts.

Check out my 2021 holiday beauty gift-giving guide below:

Clear Clinical – REFLECT Anti-Aging Kit

The epitome of anti-aging. You’ll hit it out of the park with Mom on this one.

Slip – Silk Pillowcase

The perfect gift for a skincare and haircare fanatic. Made of the highest-grade mulberry silk for the ultimate beauty sleep and less-visible signs of aging.

Summer Fridays – Skincare Regimen Set

This limited-edition set is guaranteed to wow any beauty lover. It also comes with the cutest makeup bag. An immediate no-brainer.

Maison Margiela – ‘REPLICA’ By the Fireplace Fragrance

This is holiday in a bottle. The warm and spicy fragrance is a consistent crowd favourite, inspired by the feeling of comfort. Reviews claim that the scent evokes the memory of wood crackling in the fireplace while snow falls outside. Sounds like heaven to me.

Too Faced – Lip Injection Plump Challenge Instant & Long-Term Lip Plumper Set

Non-surgical lip injections? Sign me up! This trio offers every level of plump—from the OG gloss to the Maximum Plump, this award-winning formula doesn’t disappoint.

Morphe – Face The Beat 5-Piece Face Brush Collection

If you wear makeup, you know what this collection means to us. This five-piece set includes a brush for any occasion, along with a sleek case for transit.

First Aid Beauty – Your Future Looks FAB Gift Set

Looking to impress that special woman? Know that the way to her heart is through her beauty products. This sensitive-skin-safe collection will make her glow from head to toe.

You can take a deep breath now. All seven of these gifts are perfect for the beauty lover in your life. In fact, you’re looking at my personal holiday wishlist…should I link my shipping address? 😛

Happy holidays and happy skincaring <3

The Tea on Winter Skincare

Two words: Dry Skin.

Written by Carlyn

The temperature is beginning to drop, and the days of sweaty summer skin are officially over. Oily skin friends, it’s now your time to shine. One of the most popular cold weather skin concerns is dry skin. And let me tell you, cold weather dry skin is not something to be taken lightly. The cracked, tight, and sandpaper-y feeling can be super uncomfortable and leave us looking like snakes during shedding season. :/

Here are my tips for adjusting your skincare routine to meet the needs of the cold:

  • Due to the chill in the air, your current cleanser may be too stripping and could be the culprit of that taut and tight feeling in your skin. This doesn’t mean that your cleanser is no longer effective; this could be your skin craving something more gentle and hydrating instead. Feeding your face with a creamier and more hydrating cleansing formula can help combat tight skin.
  • My second piece of advice is to keep your current skincare treatments going strong. Treatments include retinoids, AHA/BHAs, benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid to name a few. If your skin concerns remain the same, keep using those treatments for consistency. However, if you begin to experience irritation or sensitivity, cutting back on the treatments might be your best bet. Decreasing the quantity of product per use or finding a gentler alternative are both legit options.
  • Up the hydration. A lot. Cold weather is the prime suspect for dry skin. To my friends who struggle with winter dryness, now would be a good time to switch out your lightweight gel moisturizer for a heavier moisturizing cream. Ingredients like hyaluronic acid and glycerin work hard to maintain moisture in the skin. Hyaluronic acid works great for dehydrated skin due to its ability to hold up to 1000x its weight in hydration, while glycerin acts as a humectant, which allows the skin to retain moisture. An overnight hydrating mask might be your new secret weapon.
  • Cold weather’s favourite victims are the lips, so don’t forget to show them some love. A thick and creamy consistency would be a better choice for dryness compared to a more lightweight oil or gloss. A good ol’ tub of Vaseline works wonders too. No cracked and sore lips ova here.
  • Keep it simple. No, you don’t need to be using 5 different moisturizers in your routine now. Consistency is key, especially when your skin is adjusting to changes in the environment.
  • Lastly, just because its cold, doesn’t mean the sun stops working. Sun protection should be worn every day of the year, no matter what the thermometer says. I love the Clear Clinical SPF 30 sunscreen spray because it isn’t greasy and doesn’t leave a weird residue on the interior of my winter jacket and scarves.

Happy skincaring <3

I tried it! SilkPeel Treatment

My SilkPeel Dermal Infusion Treatment @ DLK on Avenue

Written by Carlyn

Have I ever mentioned how much I love my job? A couple days ago, I received the SilkPeel Dermal Infusion Facial Treatment at DLK on Avenue, and I can’t wait to tell you about it.

Due to pandemic regulations and policies, this facial was tragically overdue. Since our chilly Canadian Fall is officially in effect, my skin was desperate for a pick-me-up. I noticed dullness, mild congestion and texture around my chin and forehead.

I arrived at my appointment fresh-faced and without makeup or product. Right away, I was surprised at how comfortable I felt at DLK. The patient services team was excited to see me and answer all the questions I had about the procedure. After only about 5 minutes of waiting, I was given a fancy water bottle and I was on my way.

I opted for the SilkPeel Dermal Infusion Facial Treatment because I wanted something beginner that required little or no downtime (so no peeling or crazy looking redness afterwards). I loved how I got to customize my treatment by targeting a specific skin concern. I chose the acne serum solution since I was experiencing a mild breakout around my mouth and chin area. However, the Vitamin C and Hydrating formulas definitely caught my eye. I have a feeling I’ll be back soon lol.

The lovely esthetician who took care of me was so gentle with my skin. To start, she cleansed my skin with a Vitamin A cleanser. It smelled amazing and felt magical on my face. She then set up the SilkPeel machine and walked me through the procedure. My favourite benefit about the procedure was the Dermal Infusion topical delivery. In English, this refers to the treatment solution that I selected prior to the procedure. With the help of the machine, the solution is exfoliated and absorbed into my skin through a painless and soothing application.

More about the magical machine:

The SilkPeel machine is the coolest thing ever. It looks like a large square box with a connected handpiece and an empty clear bottle, which I assume would be filled with my skin’s waste and debris by the end. The handpiece uses an interchangeable tip which works like a vacuum to essentially pull the tissue through the plastic tip and into contact with the treatment head. As the handpiece is drawn over the skin, the treatment head simultaneously exfoliates and infuses the condition-specific serums deep into the skin. In my case, the acne solution was efficiently absorbed into my skin.

A Closed-Loop Vacuum system is used to evenly abrade the superficial epidermal layer of the skin in a safe and comfortable procedure that encourages even treatment across the entire surface of the skin. The entire treatment was just under 40 minutes and was so relaxing. I fell asleep and didn’t want to leave!

My results:

My skin was so happy after this treatment. Some of my immediate results included tighter and smaller looking pores, a more even skin tone, instant hydrating smoothness, and brighter looking skin. I couldn’t stop taking selfies in the car on my way home.

To my surprise, my skin started looking even better after 2 days. I know I’m not supposed to touch my face, but I can’t stop. My skin feels so smooth and soft. I also haven’t felt the need to wear makeup because of how glowy my skin looks.

Moving forward, I’m continuing to be religious about my Clear Clinical skincare routine, which includes daily SPF, of course. I’m excited to see my acne disappearing and my skin texture improving already.

My next facial appointment is already booked, and I’m thinking of trying the Vitamin C solution formula this time to help with tired or dull looking skin. I’m craving that summer brightness even in the colder weather!

Oh, and please enjoy the picture of my skin debris which includes makeup particles, old spray tan, dirt and oil. It’s gross but oddly satisfying at the same time.

Happy skincaring <3

Carlyn

Your Skin vs. The Pill

Your Skin vs. The Pill – How Birth Control Affects your Skin

Written by Carlyn

Ladies, I’m sure this topic is something we can all relate to. Whether you’re on it to regulate your period, to improve the condition of your acne, or to have control over your fertility, the topic of birth control yields many, many questions.

Let’s get one thing straight: skin problems caused by birth control depend on the type of birth control being used. In particular, oral contraceptives, aka “the pill”, have given us the option to prevent or delay pregnancy. Another blessing is the ability to regulate hormones and clear up acne.

When talking about birth control, it’s helllla important to mention that it can come with a host of side effects (some good and some not so good). Usually, some trial and error is required to nail down the best method or pill for your body. Because of these reasons, your mom, sister, and friend will all have different stories to tell about the pill.

Birth control methods work by using synthetic hormones which are designed to mimic your natural hormones. The job of these synthetic hormones is to disrupt or prevent implantation or ovulation. If you give a sh*t about skincare, you probably know that hormonal fluctuations during the natural menstrual cycle can affect your skin and hair, i.e., teens struggle with acne and women in menopause worry about hair loss. The pill comes in various forms, including progestin-only pills and low-dose estrogen pills. When it comes to acne, it helps A LOT if your hormones are in check.

Now for some ~fancy science~:

  • Estrogen can help improve acne by decreasing oil production and keeping hair in the growth phase for longer. In other words, it improves acne.
  • Androgens, which are a group of hormones that include testosterone, can be the culprit of unwanted hair growth and oily skin. Some women can experience thinning or excessive hair loss as well.

So, knowing the type of progestin in your contraceptive is key, since some have a more androgenic effect compared to others. Another important factor is how sensitive you are to these synthetic estrogen and progesterone hormones, since that will exacerbate side effects like acne.

Usually, doctors will prescribe a pill with estrogen and progestin in effort to stabilize hormones and suppress the production of androgens in the ovaries, therefore decreasing excessive oil production. That being said, our individual bodies are different, meaning that there isn’t one magical pill that makes everyone happy.

Going off The Pill

OK—so you’ve been on the pill, and for whatever reason (anxiety, spotting, risk of blood clots) you’re looking to get off it.

What happens to your skin when you stop taking birth control?

Your body may experience some changes, which is to be expected when going off the pill. These aren’t really “side effects,” rather just your body and reproductive system transitioning back to a state before the pill. Obviously, the post-pill changes will vary from person to person, but here’s what to expect for your skin after going off the pill:

The adjustment period (no pun intended).

Within about 90 days, your menstrual cycle and ovaries will return to “normal”, whatever that may look like for you. Some people may experience heavy periods or bleeding between periods. Additionally, if the pill helped with period cramps, you’re likely to experience cramping again during your period when going off the pill. Sorry :/

It is also important to note that the amount of time you spent on the pill will not affect the 90-day time frame, since most medications are out of your system within 48 hours.

Acne: Oof. I wish I had better news.

If the pill helped to control and improve your acne condition, it is likely that your skin will break out after stopping. This is because birth control helps to decrease the amount of circulating testosterone in your body, which essentially treats acne. So, if these synthetic hormones are no longer in your system, expect some acne to return.

If your uninvited pal makes a triumphant return, getting in touch with your doctor about topical or oral medications is the call. Locking down that skincare routine before going off the pill has shown to be useful too. Benzoyl peroxide will be your new BFF.

Cosmetic Ingredients Explained

You know those tiny words on the back of your skincare bottles?

Written by Carlyn

In a 2017 study looking at female buying behaviour, it was concluded that 81% of those surveyed do not recognize ingredients on the label of personal care products at least somewhat often. In fact, only 2% of women said they always understand what all of the ingredients are!

So, we had to go straight to the source.

Today, my friend Brian E. Jahns, PharmD, is here to give you alllll the ~tea~ on cosmetic product ingredients and chemicals.

Check out our chat highlights below, and peep our video clip at the end!

C: To you, what is the importance/ significance of understanding what ingredients we’re using in our cosmetic products?
B: I think there’s an element of personal choice. By virtue of being consumers, we have a right to know what is going in, on, and around our bodies. Sure, the Canadian government, the FDA, Health Canada, etc. have high standards compared to many other countries in the world. But I still think you can’t take the decision of what to put in and on your body and completely give it over to Health Canada and the FDA. You need to take some accountability and be aware of what you’re putting in and around your body.  

C: When I look at the ingredient list specifically for our products, the Clear Clinical line, I notice that there are SO many. I’m wondering, do you know approximately how many ingredients or chemicals on average go into one product?
B: The bottom line is a lot! If something is a cream or oil-based ointment, or an emulsion (oil dissolved into a water-y base) you need a whole bunch of chemicals. For instance, you need surfactants, emulsifiers, pH balancers, and preservatives. So, the ingredients for even the most straight-forward and ‘simple’ products have so much there. The names can be rather intimating too. For a consumer to read through and see these 8-syllable names and ingredients that have the scary word ‘acid’ in them, it’s very intimating. 

I’m always blown away by how simple things can be made complex. You know, if you read an ingredient and it says “Tocopherol” you’re like oh my gosh, what’s a Tocopherol?! Well, that’s actually just Vitamin E! So you likely already know what some of these ingredients are, but maybe don’t fully appreciate them because of the name presented.

C: Do you know why there are all these ‘scary’ names for cosmetic ingredients? Why do they make it so hard for us?!
B: It’s so that chemists and pharmacists can stay in work! Haha!

But really, generally, the ‘scary’ names are chemical names that are standardized according to international guidelines. What that means is individual companies can’t have their own name or their own spin on chemicals. It’s like providing a universal language to understand the ingredients within a product.

C: When I look at the ingredient list for our products, I see that they’re separated into two sections, active ingredients and product ingredients. Can you talk about the difference between the two categories?
B: An active ingredient does something specific related to the application that you’re using it for. In an antibiotic ointment, for example, the active ingredient is the antibiotic; it’s there to kill a bacteria. The “inactive” product ingredients would be the ointment part of it. If I’m taking a Vitamin E cream or a retinoid cream, the active ingredients would be Vitamin E or a retinoid—they are added to do something specific to my skin. It’s the cream part that would be considered the “inactive” ingredient or part of the product ingredients. So, it’s the stuff that makes up the cream or ointment.

C: Can you speak on the concentrations or percentages that we see on the back of our products? You know, like Oxybenzene 0.4% and those accompanying numbers.
B: Percent means number of grams per 100 grams. So, 1% would mean that there’s 1 gram in 100 grams of the cream. For example, if I have a Vitamin E 1% cream, it would mean that there is 1 gram of Vitamin E in 100 grams of the tube.  

C: Are you aware of any cosmetic ingredients that work really well together, and conversely, ingredients that should never be mixed or combined?
B: Generally speaking, companies do not want to blend ingredients that react together or inactivate each other. For example, with ascorbic acid (Vitamin C), the idea is that it creates a healthier skin cell metabolism. To put that ascorbic acid into a cream where the acid component (the pH), breaks down another substance would be a big problem.

I’m a big believer in not stacking on different products and substances. I think applying, then waiting a bit, and applying another product is the way to go. This encourages the substances to be used separately.

C: I wanted to play a little game with you. From the Clear Clinical line, one of my favourite products is the Polishing Gel Cleanser, which is a gentle exfoliating cleanser. Using your knowledge, I would love to see if you can roughly guess what ingredients would be in this product.
B: Hmmm. I’m guessing it will have a physical abrasive for starters. I’m guessing it will also have a detergent, something to emulsify and remove dirt, and I’m also guessing it will have an alcohol, maybe not ethanol, but there will be an alcohol in it. My last guess is that there will be a low concentration preservative of some sort too.

FYI, Brian was right!  For the full interview check out the vid below <3