Time Travel – Put your best face forward with these decade-defying tips from the experts.


Posted on November 21st, by Helen in Uncategorized. 9 comments

20’s

Starter kit: An
oil-controlling cleanser, a mild exfoliator, a toner for pore
refinement, a day moisturizer with an SPF of at least 15 and a night
moisturizer.

What happens: “Women in
their 20’s can suffer from oily skin, extra-large pores and outbreaks
of hormonal acne,” says Dr. Lisa Kellett, a Toronto based cosmetic
dermatologist. But for those blessed with a flawless and glowing
complexion, take note: before your 20th birthday, your skin has already
acquired 20 percent of its capacity for photo damage.

What a dermo can do:
“I prescribe a range of topical or oral antibiotics for acne,
everything from benzoyl peroxide and clindamycin to Accutane, which
range in price from $30-$250 a month.”

For the sun goddess, Kellett performs prescription-grade
chemical peels ($300-$400 a session) to combat the early signs of
photo-aging. “But I’ll only do that after giving my patients ‘the talk’
and arming them with a bottle of sunblock.”

30’s

Starter Kit: A cleanser
and mild exfoliator, a toner, a day moisturizer with an SPF of at least
15, an eye product to protect against the onset of fine lines and
sagging and a rehydrating night moisturizer.

What happens: The sun
damage stored in your skin’s memory bank start to show it’s hand.
“After 35, the skin begins to change,” says Kellett. The metabolism of
the basal cell layer slows down, making the skin less resilient, less
capable of retaining moisture and more open to fine lines. Don’t stop
laughing, but do hydrate and get lots of sleep to turn up the glow in
your face.

What a dermo can do:
Topical prescription-grade vitamin A, in a cream or gel, is one of the
only treatments proven to reverse some of the signs of photo-aging.
“the most popular brand I use is Retisol-A with sunblock,” says
Kellett. (The creams and gels start at $30). It lightens the skin and
lessens the effect of fine lines, dark spots and rough patches by
revealing lower layers of fresh skin. “I’m also a big believer in the
benefits of antioxidants,” says Kellett, who recommends upping your
intake of blueberries and pomegranate juice to 250ml a day.

40’s

Starter kit: You will need
an anti-bacterial cleanser and mild exfoliator, a day moisturizer with
an SPF of at least 15, the occasional multivitamin anti-aging mask to
reduce redness and restore suppleness and a night moisturizer.

What happens: You may
have noticed a pimple or two on your chin and along your jawline. What
gives?
There has been a huge incidence of acne in adult women,” says Kellett.
“ It’s partly stress-related, and possibly the result of diets high in
refined carbs.” The contours of your face also change. Cheekbones
hollow out from the loss of fatty tissue and laugh-lines settle in.

What a dermo can do:
Topical vitamin A creams and gels are still recommended, but so are
intense pulsed light treatments ($400-$600) for reducing brown spots,
fine lines and redness. Laser treatments ($350 and up) work well on
broken capillaries. Photo rejuvenation therapies that use
aminolevulinic acid are becoming popular because they cut treatment
times in half. Five to six treatments (at $550-$650 each) significantly
improve texture and pigment in acne-and rosacea-prone skin.

50’s

Starter kit: A
moisturizing cleanser, a serum or facial oil to rehydrate the skin, an
anti-aging product that lifts and firms, a day moisturizer with an SPF
of at least 15 and a night moisturizer.

What happens: The biggest
change takes place in the structure of the skin’s connective tissues.
Collagen and elastin fibres aren’t as tightly organized as they used to
be, so you’ll notice a drop in the skin around the jawline and eyes.
Meanwhile, you’re producing less oil as you enter menopause, which
results in much drier skin. Thinning skin also makes you more prone to
sun damage.

What a dermo can do:
The same treatments for women in their 40’s apply to women in their
50’s, such as vitamin A, light and laser treatments, but Kellett adds
erbium laser therapy to the list for this age group. “Erbium is a
resurfacing laser that burns off the top layer of skin. It creates an
overall improvement in brown spots and some fine lines, but it’s mostly
used to burn off precancerous spots, which are a lot more common in
your 50’s.”

Treatments start at $2300. For those who don’t
want to come back again and again for light treatments, this is good
one stop shopping.

From Elle Canada, November 2005,  text by Alison Garwood-Jones





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